March 4, 2011

I am sitting on a sand dune overlooking the Indian Ocean as I write. What spectacular scenery to overlook. White coral beaches, a pristine clear blue sea,  lush, rolling green vegetation, and the sparkling reflection of the sun off the sea.

I can say in all honesty that I have never visited a country as beautiful as Mozambique, impoverished and problematic though it may be.

We began our journey from Gaborone, arriving in Johannesburg after dark, and making it safely to the bus station. Right after crossing the border into South Africa, my friend and I saw our first elephant, and took this as a good omen. Having not spent much time in South Africa, we were in awe of the breathtaking and diverse scenery, watching what was perhaps one of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen. Gigantic clouds hung over the rolling hills of the countryside accompanied by brilliant rays of range, gold, and purple to paint a magnificent portrait of South Africa. The other passengers on the bus were confused as to why we were so enthusiastic about the sunset, asking us if we had before never seen a sunset. It's amazing how accustomed we become to the beauty around us if we see it every day.

Much of the scenery were also miles of shantis, however. The level of poverty in South Africa seems to be much greater and harsher than that of Botswana.   What also hit me was how racially segregated parts of it still seem to be.

From Johannesburg, we took a night bus to Maputo,  the capital and mostly heavily populated city in Mozambique.  Upon leaving the city around 10pm, we were quite surprised to see how empty the city seems at night. People told us that no one goes out after dark in what is stigmatized to be the most dangerous city of the world, and they seemed to be right from what we saw.


We arrived at Mozambique border at sunrise, getting out of the bus and walking up a hill for several kilometers to have our passports stamped. I was immediately hit here as well by the poverty that seems to plague the country. Seemingly anything was being offered to us, even dirty plastic containers. There are many children who sell things as well.

We got through the border without much trouble, with the exception of getting ripped off in an intentionally confusing currency transaction, a good lesson for us to keep our wits about us.

Many of the buildings in Maputo have been obviously influenced  or constructed by the Portuguese. Settled along the Indian Ocean and dotted with palm trees, mosaics, paintings, and other art, the city has a very unique and intriguing character of its own.

We went for a swim in the bay which was a public beach area, and took a ferry to a nearby island. The water and beach itself were dirty, but we enjoyed ourselves nonetheless. We all felt much more consciouses about being white tourists here. The level of poverty around us made us feel incredibly uncomfortable with our privileged positions in society.

All the people we encountered were even more friendly  and curious than those in Botswana.

We were solicited by an endless number of beggars and people trying to sell us things. We befriended one university student who begged us to send him a lap top once we returned to the states. Though the city didn't appear to be nearly as segregated as parts of South Africa, all of the wealthy people we saw were obviously Portuguese. .

Though few people spoke much English, we were able to get by with some basic Portuguese we learned before our trip, as well as using some of our Spanish. We also realized how cheap things in Mozambique were in comparison to Botswana. The currency exchange rate is around 28 meticals to every US dollar. Even getting overcharged as obvious tourists,  we still paid next to nothing for a variety of goods that we purchased from street vendors.

That evening we met up with some Brazilians whom we contacted through couch surfing who let us stay with them for the night. They generously fed us and took us to a Carnival costume party at an abandoned train station nearby. We didn't' return until the sun rose the next day. We were stopped by the police twice upon return, and though showing them proper documentation, they wouldn't let us pass without giving them money. The Brazilians told us they are unfairly stepped all the time because it is known that they are wealthy. they talked about corruption within all levels of government and within the law enforcement community as being a big problem.

After catching up on some sleep, the Brazilians took us out for breakfast and dropped us off  at the beach for the day. We swam and played frisbee with the local children, and talked to many interesting people. At one point we formed a music circle, singing and playing guitar and harmonica. They taught us several songs in Portuguese, and we taught them some English songs. What a fantastic day.

I talked to many of the locals about problems in Mozambique. They all reiterated what the Brazilians told us about political corruption being an enormous problem hindering the development of the country.They also cited unemployment and a lack of educational and health resources as major problems facing the people.

 All the children tried to persuade us to give them any and every belonging that was with us, including our clothes after playing with us. They seemed disappointed and left soon after realizing we weren't going to give them our passports or belongings.

That evening we booked a bus to take us north to Tofo and stayed at a backpackers hostel in the city. We departed at 5am the next day for what was the longest minibus ride we had been on.

We were again amazed by the scenery. We passed through miles of palm tree forests. Street vendors everywhere sold the best and cheapest bananas, mangoes, and avocados I've ever had. The farther north we traveled, the less developed the roads and infrastructure were.

We arrived in Tofo in the evening shortly before sunset and set up camp. We immediately fell in love with the beach. The ocean was crystal clear and completely empty. We fell asleep on the beach that night watching the stars above, awaking to a rainstorm and retreating back to our tent, which incidentally also became soaked.

We awoke the next morning to find that all of our clothes and supplies were soaking wet, and the rain was continuing and letting no signs of letting up. We decided to walk several kilometers north to where we heard there was a dormitory to get out of the rain.

We walked through a forest of palm trees for a while along a red dirt road filled with pot holes unnavigable by car unless in a 4 wheel drive.  and passed through a village of curious onlookers. None of them could speak any English, and their Portuguese was nearly impossible for us to understand.

After walking for an hour or so through the pouring rain, we were picked up by a south African in the company of two Germans. who offered to take us to our destination. We were unable to find it, so he offered to let us stay at his resort free of charge, an offer we eagerly accepted.

We rode in the back of his truck for several hours, the rain never letting up. We continued to be amazed by the scenery and stark contrast between Mozambique and Botswana, and even each place within Mozambique.

Once arriving, the South African, Rudy, let us take hot showers and prepared us a delicious meal. He then drove us down to a spectacular beach where we quickly swam.

That evening, Rudy told us about his business in Mozambique, and how he grew up in South Africa but left because of the crime rate. The Germans he was  with were visiting the country for a few days like us and staying with him before  heading home.

We all slept in complete peace in huts made of dried palm leaves and trees that night, falling asleep to the sound of rolling ocean waves.

February 24, 2011

Today is my 21st birthday. I realized today that I'm as old as my mother was when she had me--a mildly frightening thought. My friends took me out for a dinner of Indian Food, and organized a party for me. They also pooled their money together to give me so I could buy a new camera.

Last night we raided the lemon trees on campus and made fresh lemonade. Most of the local students had never before tried it, and those who had had surprisingly never had it fresh, though lemons grow in a variety of places in and around Gaborone.

Tomorrow morning we will leave for Johannesburg and begin our journey to Mozambique. .

February 23, 2011

I am beginning to recognize drinking and casual dating as much more of a problem here as opposed to the States. The potential consequences are far worse. If a student flunks a semester worth of courses, they lose their government scholarships and stipends forever, and are thus unable to return to the university. The high HIV/AIDS rate here also makes promiscuity much more dangerous.  

Many students blow their stipends for the month from the government within the first two weeks and drink during the day as opposed to attending class, a problem professors constantly mention.

 Though the president has imposed a very steep importation tax on the alcohol here, around 70%, the problem does not seem to have been resolved, and people are instead spending more money on alcohol and less on food for themselves and their families.

On Friday the tutor that I met that took me to Gabane and introduced me tot the girls I am now tutoring took me out for coffee(not instant) and showed me around Gaborone at night, something I haven’t yet done though I’ve been here for a month. Though it feels very safe here, we’ve been advised by all to not go out after dark, so unless going in large groups to a destination, it’s something we have all avoided doing. It was fantastic to have real coffee again, such a rare treat, and something I’ve been forced to give up entirely since I arrived here. We had cake after coffee as well, something I also have a whole new appreciation for.

I have begun planning my other trips for the semester. I hope to travel down to Lesotho, a landlocked country in South Africa whose elevation throughout the entire country never drops below 1,000m, the Kalahari, and Salt Pans, and of course Maun, Kasane, Victoria Falls, and the Okavango Delta. The grandmother of one of the girls I am tutoring has offered to let me use her house in Maun, which is currently

uninhabited, when I travel there. I never cease to be amazed by the generosity offered to me here. I will do my best to reciprocate it in the states.

My roommate informed me several days ago that she is pregnant, and she has asked me to name her first child. I’ve been brainstorming for names for the past week. I’m having an internal as to whether or not a name can potentially contribute to the success or failure of an individual in society. The naming of a child isn’t a task to be taken lightly.  It is due in August, so I unfortunately won’t be able to meet the newborn as it enters the world.

My family doesn’t seem to be pleased with the prospect of extending my stay in Botswana and Africa. I miss my family and friends, but with each passing day, I became more and more set on the idea.  I have obligations and responsibilities to return to, but I feel as though spending more time here working at an orphanage and on a farm would be more worthwhile, important, and enriching in the grand scheme of things. 

February 21, 2011

 I went camping on Saturday with some fellow international students in Kapang. Initially the cab driver told us he knew where to take us for a horseback riding and camping area approximately 50km outside of Gaborone.  About fifteen minutes into the drive, however, it was clear that this was not the case. It ended up taking about 2 frustrating hours to get there, and we got lost several times along the way.

^{The area itself was very beautiful and seemingly untouched by much human inhabitance. We went for miles without seeing any sort of infrastructure, only occasionally seeing sporadic settlements of traditional houses. All sorts of livestock was on the road, including donkeys, cattle, and goats.}

^{The camping area itself was very beautiful. We decided against riding the horses, as they appeared exhausted and starving. I fed them some apples instead. Care for animals doesn't seem to preoccupy many people here. I wonder what people here think of the pet obsession in America.} 

 ^{We gathered firewood, which in Botswana, is always difficult to find, as much of the vegetation is short, thin, and thorny. We gathered enough to have a small fire for several hours, however, prepared a meal, and watched the sunset. We decided to sleep outside to admire the incredible African night sky and the moon, but awoke around 3am to a thunderstorm, so we retreated for cover.}

^{We left the next day around noon, and spent the morning working on our plans for Swaziland and Mozambique. We read about a ceremony held in December in Swaziland  in which all the women present themselves topless in the main city for the King as he selects his new wife.}

^{We hope to travel as far north as Tofo in Mozambique, though we are afraid we may be restricted by time. It also sounds as though it becomes more difficult to travel as the country becomes less and less developed, and many of the roads require a 4 wheel drive vehicle. The cultural diversity and history sounds fascinating from what we’ve read. We were initially hoping to travel farther north, especially to Mozambique Island, which dates as far back as the 15th century for being a place of commercial trade for different countries. Mozambique was formerly a Portuguese colony, so the influence there remains very visible from what we’ve read. Portuguese is the main language spoken. There are also influences from Arabic and Italian as well. Parts of the northern country still remain largely undeveloped. We recently found an article about a jungle in northern Mozambique that was just discovered. It seems like a country I would like to explore again and to a greater extent in the future.} 

February 16, 2011

This evening I attended a wonderful poetry reading. There was a power outage right before it began, but after waiting a while it was unanimously decided to proceed in the dark.  I was incredibly impressed with all the poets who performed. There was quite a diverse range in the styles, forms, and presentation. Several of the poets present had traveled around the world, one of which had spent some time in the States. I befriended one poet who I congratulated after her moving performance. She has invited me to Johannesburg, SA to stay with her for a while, and to introduce me to the poetry scene there. Though  all poets were incredibly talented, they were also very humble about their own work, and were filled with praise about the other poets present. I’m only now beginning to realize how much I will miss the poetry scene here after returning to the states. 

February 15, 2011

   Yesterday my friend I taught two little girls some English and math in their village. Though the same age and enrolled in the same grade and school, it was immediately apparent that the two learn at very different paces and in different ways. I realized the impossibility of having them both engaged had I been the only one there to instruct. I’m facing challenges with one student, who is eight years old, and I’m convinced has some sort of learning disability or an attention span problem. She has failed her school exams twice, and still cannot make it through the alphabet without losing interest after five or six letters. I realize the importance of developing a strong foundation for English at an early age here, as all their schooling is done in English. It is obvious that she is not receiving any additional help in her school. I plan to go speak with her teacher next week to help address the matter. I haven’t done any research about disability support or education in Botswana’s public schools. Services are available at the university level, but I’m unsure if they implement them at lower levels for students that need services. Her mother told me that her teacher is in charge of forty children, and has the sole responsibility of all the children without any teaching assistant or additional help. Her mother and grandmother also speak very little English,  so she is unable receive much help from home.

I’m amazed abyt the learning pace of one of my students, however. While it is challenging to instruct some students, it is also challenging to keep students interested and challenged who learn quickly and easily. I continue to learn from the kids long after teaching them. I’m also learning through the way they play and interact with one another, as well as with me. 

February 12, 2011

Last night my friend and I went on top of the humanities building to get a glimpse of Gaborone and the campus from above, and to bring ourselves closer to the night sky. We told stories of our past, our anticipations for the future, and discussed how our time in Botswana had already changed us. Both of us hope to stay longer than initially anticipated. I brought up the possibility of working on an organic farm or at an orphanage to extend our stay in an inexpensive way, and also to further immerse ourselves into the community. We’ve decided to explore the option and do some research. 

February 10, 2011

Today I awoke around 4:30 and went to Khali Hill with several students to hike and watch the sunrise from the view at the top. We made it moments before it rose. It was absolutely spectacular. We hollowed out pineapples to use as cups, filling them with champagne and orange juice and toasting to our spring break trip to Mozambique. I am absolutely thrilled for more adventures and to see more of Africa. During our hike, we talked about the comparative disconnection we feel from our food in America. We discussed purchasing a goat and slaughtering it with the help of some locals, as none of us have ever killed an animal that we have consumed aside from fish.  

February 9th, 2011

I took several convoys and travelled to Gabane with my new friend, Salphie, to meet some prospectivestudents and get a sense of the village we will be teaching in. The village was very rural in comparison to Gaborone, though not far outside of the city’s limits. Cattle and goats ran around the unpaved streets. Most of the houses were traditional mud houses. Salphie told me of his experiences throughout many African countries. 

While walking around the village, we heard music and drumming. Deciding to investigate, we found our way in a 20 X 10 building made of tin held up by 2X4s. Everyone was dressed in traditional religious garb; the women had their hair covered and were wearing long dresses, the men in long loose white linen shirts and pants. Everyone was singing and playing drums, and the young were spinning in circles around a candle in the middle of the floor. I felt completely foreign, but in awe of the experience. 

Afterwards Salphie took me to the local village area where they sell the traditional Botswana beer, chobuku. He kindly bought one for nearly everyone though he himself abstains from drinking. The men there, most of which were elderly, were very curious, and flooded me with questions asking me where I was from, where I was staying, how old I was, etc., They seemed ecstatic when I told them I was American. None of them had ever met any Americans before.  One man offered me a drink of his chibuku. They became even more excited when I agreed to try it and drink with them for a while.  They all asked if I liked it, how it tasted, if we hade it in America, what I thought of it, if I would come back and drink with them again, etc. They seemed very pleased by the gesture of drinking with them. 

Salphie later introduced me to a  family that he knew, and they served us dinner. They have several grandchildren, one of which I am to tutor tomorrow. I look forward to it, but am somewhat anxious as well. I’m sure it will give me a new perspective on education, and will allow me to gauge my own abilities to teach. Afterwards we went to another of his friend’s house, which was incredibly ritzy, even by American standards. The family there was very kind, with two daughters and baby boy. The mother told me all sorts of stories about her time at UB, traveling in Tanzania, and gave me an enormous bag of mupani worms to bring back to friends and family.

I returned at sunset to organize a marshmallow roast with fellow international students and some locals who had before never tried roasted marshmallows.  They all thought smores were much too rich, but really enjoyed the experience. 

February 5th, 2011

This past weekend I went camping with the Brotherhood, a student organization dedicated to serving the community and forming leaders for Botswana’s tomorrow. I was immediately awed by the African night sky. Never before have I seen such a spectacular and memorable night sky; I can only compare it to being in a planetarium. I met so many amazing people. We all cooked together and bried an entire pig over the course of the weekend they had slaughtered several hours before the trip began.

I met a linguistics major who take a great interest in the design on my skirt who has asked me to help complete her finger painting project for an art course. We had a wonderful discussion about the significance of painting without a brush.

The next morning we went to a nearby village and picked up trash for several hours. I am amazed that people littler so much here; it seems they don’t recognize the beauty of their own environment. I considered staying another night, but decided against it to get some rest On the trip back met a graduate student from Berundi who teaches children in his free time in nearby villages. I told him that this was something I was very interested in, and he agreed to take me to Gabane to join him.  

February 1, 2011

It's hard for me to believe I've been here for nearly a month already. I'm making plans for the end of the semester with some friends, and I am hoping to extend my stay here by several weeks. I miss my friends and family, but the thought of leaving so soon altogether unappealing.

Some locals invited me over to their house several days ago and prepared a delicious dinner of mupani worms. I didn't like them the first time, but they are gradually growing on me. I hope to bring some back to the States.

Mupani worms are available throughout Gaborone from street vendors who sell them salted and dried. Some locals refuse to eat them, but they are rather popular overall. I have been told that they are found on mupani trees in the northern part of the country.

Over the weekend I went to a ballroom dancing competition and hiking with several international students. The dancing was fantastic. Dancers of all ages were tremendously talented.

On our hike we had a picnic at the top of the mountain in the shade of several trees and reminisced about American foods. We saw tons of chimps, and several varities of lizards and birds.

I joined Botswana’s women's rugby team. My first practice was yesterday. . I knew rugby was popular in Botswana, but I was very surprised to learn that there was a women's team. We are few in number, but working on recruitment.

My camera was stolen over the weekend, so I lost quite a few of my pictures. I will have to find a replacement soon.

I thought America was homophobic in many ways, but I am finding it is far worse here. I hear gay jokes multiple times seemingly every day, and many of the local students have asked me about my thoughts on homosexuality. All this seems to suggest a lot of cultural anxiety.

Yesterday in my postcolonial lit theory class, we had a discussion about mimicry and emulation of western culture that some argue act as a form of power here. One student raised her hand to argue that homosexuality was a form of mimicry. She claimed it didn’t exist in Africa prior to western colonization, and the overwhelming majority of the class agreed. Every local student I’ve talked to has been staunchly opposed to it. I hope to help change this, at least among my local friends, but approaching it the right way will be challenging.

January 27, 2011

Yet another weekend filled with adventure!

I went camping at the Gaborone Game Reserve with the University of Botswana's Wildlife Conservation Group. Leaving on Friday afternoon, we camped over the weekend and returned on Sunday evening.

Thee game reserve itself was beautiful, and filled with a surprising number of animals. A group of about 40 UB students came, and we all camped in a communal tent.

We divided into groups to prepare food and clean up after each meal. I am finding that there is a much grater emphasis on teamwork and collaborate efforts as opposed to the States. Though not working more efficiently together, group work is seen as less of a challenge here and more ass a necessity.
We prepared pap, a sort of mashed corn porridge, for most meals with a form of meat, usually ground beef or canned fish. For breakfast each day we prepared fat cakes, similar to doughnuts, but unsweetened and more doughy.
It was great to prepare each meal collectively over the fire.

Several of us explored parts of the game reserve and saw warthogs, ostriches, monkeys, several verities of birds, impala, zebras, and other animals.

On Saturday, we held a meeting about the goal s of the organization for the semester. On the top of the agenda was raising awareness for global warming. After talking to serial of the group's members, I learned that the majority of people in Botswana have no understanding or knowledge of the concept of global warming. Most don't learn about it at all unless studying environmental science or a related subject at the college level. I was shocked to hear this.

Being here for serial weeks, I hadn't seen single recycling bin in any location I had been to. I asked about waste management and recycling in Botswana. The president of the group informed me that there are currently no recycling centers in all of Botswana. I was equally shocked to hear this.

Many people don't bother to put their waste into a garbage can. It will require a big change in mentality to get people to recycle.

Rumor has it from some of the international students that Botswana doesn't generate its own electricity as well, and imports it from Mozambique and South Africa, so many of the effects of pollution are yet to be seen.

We had a brie in the afternoon, played cards, and told stories.
That night my friend and i decided we wanted to sleep outside of the tent "out in teh bush." It was fantastic to fall asleep under the stars listening to animals. We woke up around 4am, however, when it started raining, and retreated back into the leaking tent.

I met so many amazing people during the retreat, and I am excited to become more involved with the group.

January 21, 2011

We continued our travels outside of Gaborone to Mokolodi where we spent the night in a "traditional" village.

Nested in the rural and isolated countryside, the scenery was spectacular. New plants and animal sounds, many of which we were unable ti identify.

We were greeted at the "cultural village" by three elderly women and an elderly man dressed in traditional Botswana attire. The “cultural village” itself was very touristy, but we stil had a blast.


We were initially under the impression prior to our arrival that we would, in fact, be staying in an authentically traditional village. Upon arrival, however, we quickly realized we had bought into the idea of having the "African village experience."

I don't think we realized beforehand that there was a market for the very experience we were seeking. However, the food and hospitality were great. We did, in fact, sleep in mud houses, but we weren't without running water or electricity.

The elders of the village sang and danced for us in a welcoming ceremony which we gladly took part in. We later tried traditional Botswana beer, which was startlingly different from any beer I've had before. I can only describe it as a sour, alcoholic porridge that isn’t carbonated, and is served lukewarm. It might take some getting use to.

The elders expressed their sadness that their culture and traditions are quickly disappearing, and in some instances, vanishing altogether in their lifetime. they claimed to have truly grown up in traditional villages, and only one of them had received any schooling.

They expressed frustration with the young generation of Botswana. They said they were leaving behind their culture, language, traditions, and very identity without a second thought in attempts to emulate the west. They blamed the HIV/AIDS epidemic on this, as well as alcohol. It was an interesting but sad conversation. They told us traditional Btoswana people living in the old ways were disappearing, and in some cases, being forced to immerse in modern society after being pushed off of federally sanctioned game reserves though having living in those areas for many generations.


The following morning we traveled to the Mokolodi Game Reserve for a Safari. We got to see an amazing variety of animals, and the reserve itself was spectacularly beautiful. Zebras, cheetahs, impalas, warthogs, ostriches, and more!

January 20, 2011

An incredible last few days!

All the international students took a trip together. We first went to a nearby village where we met with the village chief. He explained to us the traditional use of chiefs within villages, and their use in contemporary society today. He explained how they conduct ceremonies such weddings. We held both a mock trial and a mock wedding.


Though not commonly used in most parts of Botswana to the extent that they once were, chiefs of villages are still common in many areas. In the instance of crimes such as theft or domestic abuse, the people go before the chief. The chief hears the case from all parties involved, and makes a decision to help resolve the issue, commission punishment, etc. Corporeal punishment is still used for certain crimes in some villages.

Though no longer required it is encouraged for two individuals wishing to marry to approach the chief and ask for hid judgment and blessing.
In the instance of more serious crimes, such as murder, the chief doesn't involve himself. The case instead goes to court outside of the village much like the US.

Following this discussion and meeting with the chief and other village leaders, we traveled to a nearby cave and saw ancient cave paintings that were approximately 2,000 years old. We also visited a fantastic fig tree estimated to be around 500 years old. It was incredibly challenging to try to take pictures of this tree that conveyed how immense and breathtaking it was.

January 18, 2011

Today I visited the National Museum of Botswana. I was quite impressed with its diverse array of exhibits. The art exhibit was singularly filled with HIV?AIDS awareness sculptures, paintings, photographs, etc.

The rest of the museum detailed Botswana's history through colonialism and independence to the present. There were many displays with stuffed animals native to Botswana as well.

Earning it's independence from the British in 1966, Botswana has since held democratic elections. It currently has one of the fastest growing economies in the world.  It is the 47th largest country in the world in terms of land mass.  The Okavango Delta in the northern part of the country is the world's largest delta.

Several other students and I have begun planning a trip to the Okavango and to Chobe National Park for the mid-semester break. From the pictures I've seen, the articles I've read, and from speaking to those that have been, it sounds incredible.

January 13, 2011

An insightful day!

One of my professors came today and gave a lecture for my Gender Issues in African Literature course. It was incredibly thought provoking.

While discussing reasons why women are traditionally expected to have children, the professor mentioned its importance in care for elders. She then began comparing the treatment and care of elders in Africa to America. She asked me, being the only American student int the class, to explain the concept of nursing homes to the other students.

I have always found the idea of nursing homes to be disturbing, but I realized to the full extent how strange and inhumane it really is.. The students seemed to be rather horrified by the idea.

This evening I attended a Student Poetry Association meeting. They hold weekly poetry readings for students. The readings are open to all. Though there were only about twenty students attending this evening, it is apparently extremely popular on campus, and there are often about 100 people at each reading.

I found it fascinating to learn that poetry here is different from poetry in the states. I find it interesting that it is tremendously peppier here.

Several students read selections of Maya Angelou amongst others. Some students brought their own work as well. During the readings, I noticed each student put a great deal of energy into the actual performance of the poem. From talking to the students afterwards, I learned that the elements of performance for reading poetry are as important as the words themselves in Southern Africa.

Following one of the readings of a Maya Angelou poem, one student asked that we have a discussion about notions and possible origins of "the angry black woman."

The students claimed that there is truth to thisstereotype, and many claimed that anger is never justified even with an ugly history of racism and discrimination, and is in fact, detrimental and potentially harmful to bridging inequalities and to black progress.

However, one student pointed out that in America, the name is often applied to black women who are successful in attempts to demean them, such as Michelle Obama.

We later had discussions about abortion, homosexuality, and "the proper place and or role for a woman in society." I am finding that there seems to be fierce opposition to both abortion and homosexuality according to every student I've spoken to here. Apparently, "being homosexual" is against the law. The practice seems to be especially frowned upon for men.

I am also finding that many men have very definite and strongly opinionated ideas about the role and place of a woman in society. Roles for men and women are incredibly gendered and inflexible. Many of the female students became frustrated throughout the course of the conversation. When arguing that mat many of these "roles" are simply societal constructs, their arguments were unanimously dismissed by theirmale peers.

I am very interested in learning more about these ideologies in Africa, how some have changed and some have remained the same, and why and how some of them exist.

January 11, 2011

With our printouts and finalized schedules, we were able to attend class today. Only one professor showed up for any of my classes, however, and no assignment, syllabus, or lecture was given. From talking to students around campus, I gather that most professors don't come for the first week of classes. Many students don't either, as many still haven't received their stipends from the government. Perhaps that is why most professors choose not to come--to give these students some time and prevent them from getting behind.

I visited the library today for the first time. It is as modern and nice as any university library in the states. They have an inter library loan system with other nearby university libraries to give students access to seemingly any material resource he/she would need. The only substantial difference I noted was that there seems to be more of an emphasis on students using books in the library; there isn't access to the same fantastic online databases I have been spoiled by in the States. I am, however, enjoying the prospect of digging through the stacks this semester.

January 10th, 2011

We finally received our printouts for our schedules today. I walked around the campus to figure out where my classes are. I am excited to begin lessons. I managed to avoid having classes on Friday, so I should have plenty of time to travel on weekends.

Though attempting to stay in the shade and wearing a great deal of sunscreen, I have not managed to avoid getting sunburned. My roommate finds "my turning pink" to be endlessly amusing. When first seeing my sunburn, she had no idea what had happened, and I then had to explain the concept of a sunburn.

Though many of the local  students have not come because they haven't received their stipends from the government, many have, and the campus seems suddenly flooded with students compared to the relative calm we have experienced over the last few days.

Two of our male international students have already been mugged. Walking back from a bar latte last night, they were stopped by two boys, cut, kicked, and chocked. They seemed to be okay this morning, but rather shaken up. They say they are staying however, despite their parents' protests. Though we feel safe here, it serves as a reminder that we are in fact targets for being mugged. I feel as though if I had grown up here in poverty it would be difficult not be racist. All of the white people I have come across are either rich or travelling, so it is assumed that all whites have a lot of money.

January 9th, 2010

Yesterday morning I went to church with several local girls. I was disappointed by how similar the service was to some I have been to in the States. The music was in English and wascontemporary Christian rock. The pastor was white and from South Africa. The service itself could have been in America. Several members of the congregation I met were very interesting, however. Many were from Zimbabwe and South Africa. I met  several from Kenya as well. About half of the congregation was white, and it bothered me that the members were mostly segregated by color in their seating arrangement with few exceptions.

This evening was the brie, or barbecue. There I met many new locals and several other international students. The locals grilled some of the best pork and cattle I have ever had. I've noticed the meat here seems substantially better and less fatty than much of what I have had in the US. Several of the locals joked with me about what Americans do to their food. I also had some traditional Botswana beer, which was incredibly interesting and different from any other alcoholic beverage I have ever tried. It was served lukewarm, and I can only describe it as an alcoholic porridge. People seem to either love it or hate it. I think I will have to try it again before I can definitively conclude whetehr or not i like it.

I talked with another international student who studied in Ghana last semester. He said he was amazed by how developed Botswana was compared to Ghana. He said that his time so far in Gaborone didn't feel substantially different from America.

We still haven't received our final print outs of our schedules for classes, though they begin tomorrow, from the international office. After talking to several local students about this, however, I learned that most professors don't come for the first week of classes, and no work is assigned. I feel like I am on vacation, and find it hard to believe I will have to return to the academic mindset. However, I am looking forward to classes. I have signed up for a variety of African literature courses which sound fascinating from their descriptions, and very different from anything my university in America has to offer.

We haven't been given a map of the campus or a tour, so we still don't know our way around well enough to find classes. All buildings are numbered rather than named, and because much of the campus has been constructed in different stages, there isn't a lot of order to their numbering. I am settling into the Botswana mindset, however, and I am not even mildly stressed.

January 8th, 2011

What a fantastic day! I traveled to the closest mountain(or hill) in Gaborone, Kgale Hill, and hiked with fellow international students. Driving there in convis, we got to see a substantial amount of the city. The hike was breathtaking. At the top we could see Gaborone below us, and the reservoir in the distance.

Before beginning our descent down the other side, we had a picnic. We opened up to one another, and discussed our hopes for our time in Botswana, places we plan to visit, how we intend to handle potential culture shock, and how we intend to deal with separation from friends, siblings, and parents. The consensus seems to be that using Skye and talking on the phone makes the separation more difficult. One student who studied abroad in South Africa last semester admitted that she avoided talking to her family and friends for several months to make the seperation easier.

During our descent, we came across a plethora of wild chimps. They freely roam around the mountain.. We saw several climbing on billboards as we left.

Before returning back to campus, we stopped by a market area. There we tried  dried mophane worms, a traditional and seasonal Botswana food. I found them interesting, but not incredibly appetizing. Several locals say they are much better when cooked.

I began planning my trip to the northern part of the country for mid-semester break. I hope to visit Maun and Chobe National Park, and to canoe down the Okavango Delta. It seems all of the international students want to do this as well.

I've been invited to a local brie, the equivalent of a barbecue in the States, and to church with several local girls. I hope the service will be different from any I've been to before.

January 7th, 2011

Fever, aches, and chills. I feel exhausted, and spent most of the day resting. I was unable to stomach a breakfast of chicken livers.  I don't think I have fully recovered from the jet lag. We haven't had much time to rest since our arrival.

The second part of our orientation today was very inspiring. The speakers spoke of Botswana as a haven for peace, community, understanding, and education. They briefly mentioned some of Botswana's history and its desire to create a university in a time of conflict in southern Africa. They talked about our importance to the university as students as well, which was both refreshing and motivating. They talked about learning as much from us as we would from them. They also discussed our development as people extending outside of the classroom and books into facets of the community. They encouraged us to become involved in community service, arguing it is just as important as going to class. I really want to do as much community service as possible during my time here.

I met my roommate today. She seems shy, but nice. She is from Francistown. She left shortly after filling out the paperwork, however. She says she will return next week after she receives her stipend from the government.

I befriended a local named Unami today. She wants to take me to her village. I am very excited by the prospect.

I organized a soccer game with a group of international students this evening as well after purchasing a ball. We hope to make it a daily activity.

January 6th, 2011

Most of the international students have arrived. The majority of them seem to be from America. All have a diverse array of interests and fields of study. Several studied at UB and other African countries last semester, and enjoyed their time so much they decided to extend their travels for another semester.

We had chicken hearts and a sort of biscuit for breakfast. Lunch and dinner were the same--some form of chicken and a starch. Fresh fruits and vegetables appear to be a rarity here.

Everyone in Botswana seems to be incredibly laid back. I never realized how stressed most Americans are. Whenever we voice questions or concerns, they tell us "Don't worry. You worry too much" and laugh. Several students still haven't gotten their luggage, and one girl began crying. The locals were amazed that someone could be so upset about the loss of material objets. Our orientation began very late today. The concept of time is very different here, and punctuality seems to be nonexistant. We are still unable to register for courses. It is funny that many of the American students are becoming stressed by the mentality here.

I went to a nearby mall today with several other students to get some supplies. Yet again I was amazed by how developed and westernized it was. The mall could have been in America. The most popular music, styles, movies, television shows, etc. are American. I find this startling and upsetting. I am realizing now that western culture has permeated everywhere. I think the world really is flattening.

Though everyone speaks English here, they speak in Setswana unless spoken to. I am having a difficult time pronouncing words and names. The pronunciation of our names proves to be equally difficult for the locals here, however.

I rode in the back of a pickup truck and traveled to the outskirts of the city with several students. Though Gaborone and the campus itself are incredibly developed, large economic disparities between the rich and the poor are very visible, especially when travelling further outside the city. According to one student I spoke to, Botswana has one of the largest economic disparities between its upper and lower classes in the world.

I talked to several local students today about the education system here. I learned that all students have their entire education paid for by the government, including college. Students also receive living stipends each month, and no students work if they are in school. They were amazed to learn that a college education is a fortune in America; they assumed everything was free and paid for as well. They were even more surprised to learn that health care isn't free in America.

I haven't yet my roommate yet. I am excited that I will be living with a local as opposed to another international student. I think it will make the experience more educational and interesting.

January 5th, 2011

I am finally in Gaborone and at the University of Botswana! I would  like to emphasize how safe I feel here, and with what hospitality and generosity I have been received. Waiting at the airport were two representatives from the International Office at UB. They greeted all the international students with enthusiasm, and drove us to the campus. On our way there, they told us Botswana is known for its cattle, its diamonds, and its hospitality. It certainly seems true. Surrounding the campus are gates, and at all entrances are security personnel. Though an open campus, allowing people to freely come in and out, there is security everywhere.

The city of Gaborone, the capital and largest city in Botswana, appears to be relatively small. Most of the country appears to be rural and covered in beautiful vegetation. I am amazed by how developed the city and campus is. The campus is as nice as many college campuses I have seen in the states. The people that I have encountered everywhere have been very friendly, and seem as interested in me as I am in them. All are curious as to whey I chose to study in Botswana.

 About 15,000 students study here. The women who greeted us informed us that there will be about 70 other international students coming as well. There are also about 400 students from nearly every African country studying here. It is very hot, and humid now because it is the rainy season. Last night it rained a great deal after it began to cool off.

We were taken to dinner in one of the cafeterias on campus after being shown our rooms. Two people to a room, and communal bathrooms with 12 people per bathroom. So far there is no toilet paper, but an endless supply of condoms.The dinner was mostly meat and starch, with pumpkin, chicken, rice, and mashed corn. After returning to our dorm, we were immediately greeted by several local students who chatted excitedly with us . They say they want to show us around the campus, and to take us outside of Gaborone to show us the "real Botswana." I am very optimistic about my stay here!

January 3/4th, 2011

After an extended delay in New York, I am finally on the plane and headed to Africa. I am surrounded by interesting people and conversations. I overheard a conversation between two girls flying from Johannesburg to Mozambique to do a Peace Corps service. The man sitting next to me is from Cape Town, and studied at UC Berkely. He tells me he taught history courses there as well, and originally had dreams of becoming a professor. Now he tells me he works in the entertainment industry. He expressed his frustration with South Africa, claiming that though the apartheid is no longer in existence, there is still a great deal of separation between whites and blacks, in geographical, political, and economic senses. I met another girl who is working on her PhD at Columbia, studying political science. She is going to South Africa to do some research on its political system. The plane seems to be filled with fascinating people. I have about eight hours left of my flight, and am feeling physically exhausted, but I am too excited to sleep.

January 3, 2011

I am full of excitement and anticipation as I sit in the airport!I have found the remaining weeks prior to my departure to be the hardest. I left Pittsburgh at 6am this morning to arrive in JFK, New York. Here I have a layover for several hours, as my flight to South Africa is being delayed. I curiously eye the plethora of people around me, wondering if they too are going to Botswana.  I am expected to have a layover of around 6 hours whenI arrive in Johannesburg before my flight to Gaborone. I have been told by several that it is the most dangerous city in the world. Though I will only be in its airport, I wonder what to expect after hearing this. I have a 15 hour flight ahead of me, the longest I will have ever been on a plane.