Gaborone from the top of Kgale Hill

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

January 13, 2011

An insightful day!

One of my professors came today and gave a lecture for my Gender Issues in African Literature course. It was incredibly thought provoking.

While discussing reasons why women are traditionally expected to have children, the professor mentioned its importance in care for elders. She then began comparing the treatment and care of elders in Africa to America. She asked me, being the only American student int the class, to explain the concept of nursing homes to the other students.

I have always found the idea of nursing homes to be disturbing, but I realized to the full extent how strange and inhumane it really is.. The students seemed to be rather horrified by the idea.

This evening I attended a Student Poetry Association meeting. They hold weekly poetry readings for students. The readings are open to all. Though there were only about twenty students attending this evening, it is apparently extremely popular on campus, and there are often about 100 people at each reading.

I found it fascinating to learn that poetry here is different from poetry in the states. I find it interesting that it is tremendously peppier here.

Several students read selections of Maya Angelou amongst others. Some students brought their own work as well. During the readings, I noticed each student put a great deal of energy into the actual performance of the poem. From talking to the students afterwards, I learned that the elements of performance for reading poetry are as important as the words themselves in Southern Africa.

Following one of the readings of a Maya Angelou poem, one student asked that we have a discussion about notions and possible origins of "the angry black woman."

The students claimed that there is truth to thisstereotype, and many claimed that anger is never justified even with an ugly history of racism and discrimination, and is in fact, detrimental and potentially harmful to bridging inequalities and to black progress.

However, one student pointed out that in America, the name is often applied to black women who are successful in attempts to demean them, such as Michelle Obama.

We later had discussions about abortion, homosexuality, and "the proper place and or role for a woman in society." I am finding that there seems to be fierce opposition to both abortion and homosexuality according to every student I've spoken to here. Apparently, "being homosexual" is against the law. The practice seems to be especially frowned upon for men.

I am also finding that many men have very definite and strongly opinionated ideas about the role and place of a woman in society. Roles for men and women are incredibly gendered and inflexible. Many of the female students became frustrated throughout the course of the conversation. When arguing that mat many of these "roles" are simply societal constructs, their arguments were unanimously dismissed by theirmale peers.

I am very interested in learning more about these ideologies in Africa, how some have changed and some have remained the same, and why and how some of them exist.

January 11, 2011

With our printouts and finalized schedules, we were able to attend class today. Only one professor showed up for any of my classes, however, and no assignment, syllabus, or lecture was given. From talking to students around campus, I gather that most professors don't come for the first week of classes. Many students don't either, as many still haven't received their stipends from the government. Perhaps that is why most professors choose not to come--to give these students some time and prevent them from getting behind.

I visited the library today for the first time. It is as modern and nice as any university library in the states. They have an inter library loan system with other nearby university libraries to give students access to seemingly any material resource he/she would need. The only substantial difference I noted was that there seems to be more of an emphasis on students using books in the library; there isn't access to the same fantastic online databases I have been spoiled by in the States. I am, however, enjoying the prospect of digging through the stacks this semester.

Monday, January 24, 2011

January 10th, 2011

We finally received our printouts for our schedules today. I walked around the campus to figure out where my classes are. I am excited to begin lessons. I managed to avoid having classes on Friday, so I should have plenty of time to travel on weekends.

Though attempting to stay in the shade and wearing a great deal of sunscreen, I have not managed to avoid getting sunburned. My roommate finds "my turning pink" to be endlessly amusing. When first seeing my sunburn, she had no idea what had happened, and I then had to explain the concept of a sunburn.

Though many of the local  students have not come because they haven't received their stipends from the government, many have, and the campus seems suddenly flooded with students compared to the relative calm we have experienced over the last few days.

Two of our male international students have already been mugged. Walking back from a bar latte last night, they were stopped by two boys, cut, kicked, and chocked. They seemed to be okay this morning, but rather shaken up. They say they are staying however, despite their parents' protests. Though we feel safe here, it serves as a reminder that we are in fact targets for being mugged. I feel as though if I had grown up here in poverty it would be difficult not be racist. All of the white people I have come across are either rich or travelling, so it is assumed that all whites have a lot of money.

January 9th, 2010

Yesterday morning I went to church with several local girls. I was disappointed by how similar the service was to some I have been to in the States. The music was in English and wascontemporary Christian rock. The pastor was white and from South Africa. The service itself could have been in America. Several members of the congregation I met were very interesting, however. Many were from Zimbabwe and South Africa. I met  several from Kenya as well. About half of the congregation was white, and it bothered me that the members were mostly segregated by color in their seating arrangement with few exceptions.

This evening was the brie, or barbecue. There I met many new locals and several other international students. The locals grilled some of the best pork and cattle I have ever had. I've noticed the meat here seems substantially better and less fatty than much of what I have had in the US. Several of the locals joked with me about what Americans do to their food. I also had some traditional Botswana beer, which was incredibly interesting and different from any other alcoholic beverage I have ever tried. It was served lukewarm, and I can only describe it as an alcoholic porridge. People seem to either love it or hate it. I think I will have to try it again before I can definitively conclude whetehr or not i like it.

I talked with another international student who studied in Ghana last semester. He said he was amazed by how developed Botswana was compared to Ghana. He said that his time so far in Gaborone didn't feel substantially different from America.

We still haven't received our final print outs of our schedules for classes, though they begin tomorrow, from the international office. After talking to several local students about this, however, I learned that most professors don't come for the first week of classes, and no work is assigned. I feel like I am on vacation, and find it hard to believe I will have to return to the academic mindset. However, I am looking forward to classes. I have signed up for a variety of African literature courses which sound fascinating from their descriptions, and very different from anything my university in America has to offer.

We haven't been given a map of the campus or a tour, so we still don't know our way around well enough to find classes. All buildings are numbered rather than named, and because much of the campus has been constructed in different stages, there isn't a lot of order to their numbering. I am settling into the Botswana mindset, however, and I am not even mildly stressed.

January 8th, 2011

What a fantastic day! I traveled to the closest mountain(or hill) in Gaborone, Kgale Hill, and hiked with fellow international students. Driving there in convis, we got to see a substantial amount of the city. The hike was breathtaking. At the top we could see Gaborone below us, and the reservoir in the distance.

Before beginning our descent down the other side, we had a picnic. We opened up to one another, and discussed our hopes for our time in Botswana, places we plan to visit, how we intend to handle potential culture shock, and how we intend to deal with separation from friends, siblings, and parents. The consensus seems to be that using Skye and talking on the phone makes the separation more difficult. One student who studied abroad in South Africa last semester admitted that she avoided talking to her family and friends for several months to make the seperation easier.

During our descent, we came across a plethora of wild chimps. They freely roam around the mountain.. We saw several climbing on billboards as we left.

Before returning back to campus, we stopped by a market area. There we tried  dried mophane worms, a traditional and seasonal Botswana food. I found them interesting, but not incredibly appetizing. Several locals say they are much better when cooked.

I began planning my trip to the northern part of the country for mid-semester break. I hope to visit Maun and Chobe National Park, and to canoe down the Okavango Delta. It seems all of the international students want to do this as well.

I've been invited to a local brie, the equivalent of a barbecue in the States, and to church with several local girls. I hope the service will be different from any I've been to before.

January 7th, 2011

Fever, aches, and chills. I feel exhausted, and spent most of the day resting. I was unable to stomach a breakfast of chicken livers.  I don't think I have fully recovered from the jet lag. We haven't had much time to rest since our arrival.

The second part of our orientation today was very inspiring. The speakers spoke of Botswana as a haven for peace, community, understanding, and education. They briefly mentioned some of Botswana's history and its desire to create a university in a time of conflict in southern Africa. They talked about our importance to the university as students as well, which was both refreshing and motivating. They talked about learning as much from us as we would from them. They also discussed our development as people extending outside of the classroom and books into facets of the community. They encouraged us to become involved in community service, arguing it is just as important as going to class. I really want to do as much community service as possible during my time here.

I met my roommate today. She seems shy, but nice. She is from Francistown. She left shortly after filling out the paperwork, however. She says she will return next week after she receives her stipend from the government.

I befriended a local named Unami today. She wants to take me to her village. I am very excited by the prospect.

I organized a soccer game with a group of international students this evening as well after purchasing a ball. We hope to make it a daily activity.

January 6th, 2011

Most of the international students have arrived. The majority of them seem to be from America. All have a diverse array of interests and fields of study. Several studied at UB and other African countries last semester, and enjoyed their time so much they decided to extend their travels for another semester.

We had chicken hearts and a sort of biscuit for breakfast. Lunch and dinner were the same--some form of chicken and a starch. Fresh fruits and vegetables appear to be a rarity here.

Everyone in Botswana seems to be incredibly laid back. I never realized how stressed most Americans are. Whenever we voice questions or concerns, they tell us "Don't worry. You worry too much" and laugh. Several students still haven't gotten their luggage, and one girl began crying. The locals were amazed that someone could be so upset about the loss of material objets. Our orientation began very late today. The concept of time is very different here, and punctuality seems to be nonexistant. We are still unable to register for courses. It is funny that many of the American students are becoming stressed by the mentality here.

I went to a nearby mall today with several other students to get some supplies. Yet again I was amazed by how developed and westernized it was. The mall could have been in America. The most popular music, styles, movies, television shows, etc. are American. I find this startling and upsetting. I am realizing now that western culture has permeated everywhere. I think the world really is flattening.

Though everyone speaks English here, they speak in Setswana unless spoken to. I am having a difficult time pronouncing words and names. The pronunciation of our names proves to be equally difficult for the locals here, however.

I rode in the back of a pickup truck and traveled to the outskirts of the city with several students. Though Gaborone and the campus itself are incredibly developed, large economic disparities between the rich and the poor are very visible, especially when travelling further outside the city. According to one student I spoke to, Botswana has one of the largest economic disparities between its upper and lower classes in the world.

I talked to several local students today about the education system here. I learned that all students have their entire education paid for by the government, including college. Students also receive living stipends each month, and no students work if they are in school. They were amazed to learn that a college education is a fortune in America; they assumed everything was free and paid for as well. They were even more surprised to learn that health care isn't free in America.

I haven't yet my roommate yet. I am excited that I will be living with a local as opposed to another international student. I think it will make the experience more educational and interesting.

January 5th, 2011

I am finally in Gaborone and at the University of Botswana! I would  like to emphasize how safe I feel here, and with what hospitality and generosity I have been received. Waiting at the airport were two representatives from the International Office at UB. They greeted all the international students with enthusiasm, and drove us to the campus. On our way there, they told us Botswana is known for its cattle, its diamonds, and its hospitality. It certainly seems true. Surrounding the campus are gates, and at all entrances are security personnel. Though an open campus, allowing people to freely come in and out, there is security everywhere.

The city of Gaborone, the capital and largest city in Botswana, appears to be relatively small. Most of the country appears to be rural and covered in beautiful vegetation. I am amazed by how developed the city and campus is. The campus is as nice as many college campuses I have seen in the states. The people that I have encountered everywhere have been very friendly, and seem as interested in me as I am in them. All are curious as to whey I chose to study in Botswana.

 About 15,000 students study here. The women who greeted us informed us that there will be about 70 other international students coming as well. There are also about 400 students from nearly every African country studying here. It is very hot, and humid now because it is the rainy season. Last night it rained a great deal after it began to cool off.

We were taken to dinner in one of the cafeterias on campus after being shown our rooms. Two people to a room, and communal bathrooms with 12 people per bathroom. So far there is no toilet paper, but an endless supply of condoms.The dinner was mostly meat and starch, with pumpkin, chicken, rice, and mashed corn. After returning to our dorm, we were immediately greeted by several local students who chatted excitedly with us . They say they want to show us around the campus, and to take us outside of Gaborone to show us the "real Botswana." I am very optimistic about my stay here!

January 3/4th, 2011

After an extended delay in New York, I am finally on the plane and headed to Africa. I am surrounded by interesting people and conversations. I overheard a conversation between two girls flying from Johannesburg to Mozambique to do a Peace Corps service. The man sitting next to me is from Cape Town, and studied at UC Berkely. He tells me he taught history courses there as well, and originally had dreams of becoming a professor. Now he tells me he works in the entertainment industry. He expressed his frustration with South Africa, claiming that though the apartheid is no longer in existence, there is still a great deal of separation between whites and blacks, in geographical, political, and economic senses. I met another girl who is working on her PhD at Columbia, studying political science. She is going to South Africa to do some research on its political system. The plane seems to be filled with fascinating people. I have about eight hours left of my flight, and am feeling physically exhausted, but I am too excited to sleep.

January 3, 2011

I am full of excitement and anticipation as I sit in the airport!I have found the remaining weeks prior to my departure to be the hardest. I left Pittsburgh at 6am this morning to arrive in JFK, New York. Here I have a layover for several hours, as my flight to South Africa is being delayed. I curiously eye the plethora of people around me, wondering if they too are going to Botswana.  I am expected to have a layover of around 6 hours whenI arrive in Johannesburg before my flight to Gaborone. I have been told by several that it is the most dangerous city in the world. Though I will only be in its airport, I wonder what to expect after hearing this. I have a 15 hour flight ahead of me, the longest I will have ever been on a plane.