Gaborone from the top of Kgale Hill

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

February 1, 2011

It's hard for me to believe I've been here for nearly a month already. I'm making plans for the end of the semester with some friends, and I am hoping to extend my stay here by several weeks. I miss my friends and family, but the thought of leaving so soon altogether unappealing.

Some locals invited me over to their house several days ago and prepared a delicious dinner of mupani worms. I didn't like them the first time, but they are gradually growing on me. I hope to bring some back to the States.

Mupani worms are available throughout Gaborone from street vendors who sell them salted and dried. Some locals refuse to eat them, but they are rather popular overall. I have been told that they are found on mupani trees in the northern part of the country.

Over the weekend I went to a ballroom dancing competition and hiking with several international students. The dancing was fantastic. Dancers of all ages were tremendously talented.

On our hike we had a picnic at the top of the mountain in the shade of several trees and reminisced about American foods. We saw tons of chimps, and several varities of lizards and birds.

I joined Botswana’s women's rugby team. My first practice was yesterday. . I knew rugby was popular in Botswana, but I was very surprised to learn that there was a women's team. We are few in number, but working on recruitment.

My camera was stolen over the weekend, so I lost quite a few of my pictures. I will have to find a replacement soon.

I thought America was homophobic in many ways, but I am finding it is far worse here. I hear gay jokes multiple times seemingly every day, and many of the local students have asked me about my thoughts on homosexuality. All this seems to suggest a lot of cultural anxiety.

Yesterday in my postcolonial lit theory class, we had a discussion about mimicry and emulation of western culture that some argue act as a form of power here. One student raised her hand to argue that homosexuality was a form of mimicry. She claimed it didn’t exist in Africa prior to western colonization, and the overwhelming majority of the class agreed. Every local student I’ve talked to has been staunchly opposed to it. I hope to help change this, at least among my local friends, but approaching it the right way will be challenging.

January 27, 2011


Yet another weekend filled with adventure!

I went camping at the Gaborone Game Reserve with the University of Botswana's Wildlife Conservation Group. Leaving on Friday afternoon, we camped over the weekend and returned on Sunday evening.

Thee game reserve itself was beautiful, and filled with a surprising number of animals. A group of about 40 UB students came, and we all camped in a communal tent.

We divided into groups to prepare food and clean up after each meal. I am finding that there is a much grater emphasis on teamwork and collaborate efforts as opposed to the States. Though not working more efficiently together, group work is seen as less of a challenge here and more ass a necessity.
We prepared pap, a sort of mashed corn porridge, for most meals with a form of meat, usually ground beef or canned fish. For breakfast each day we prepared fat cakes, similar to doughnuts, but unsweetened and more doughy.
It was great to prepare each meal collectively over the fire.

Several of us explored parts of the game reserve and saw warthogs, ostriches, monkeys, several verities of birds, impala, zebras, and other animals.

On Saturday, we held a meeting about the goal s of the organization for the semester. On the top of the agenda was raising awareness for global warming. After talking to serial of the group's members, I learned that the majority of people in Botswana have no understanding or knowledge of the concept of global warming. Most don't learn about it at all unless studying environmental science or a related subject at the college level. I was shocked to hear this.

Being here for serial weeks, I hadn't seen single recycling bin in any location I had been to. I asked about waste management and recycling in Botswana. The president of the group informed me that there are currently no recycling centers in all of Botswana. I was equally shocked to hear this.

Many people don't bother to put their waste into a garbage can. It will require a big change in mentality to get people to recycle.

Rumor has it from some of the international students that Botswana doesn't generate its own electricity as well, and imports it from Mozambique and South Africa, so many of the effects of pollution are yet to be seen.

We had a brie in the afternoon, played cards, and told stories.
That night my friend and i decided we wanted to sleep outside of the tent "out in teh bush." It was fantastic to fall asleep under the stars listening to animals. We woke up around 4am, however, when it started raining, and retreated back into the leaking tent.

I met so many amazing people during the retreat, and I am excited to become more involved with the group.

January 21, 2011

We continued our travels outside of Gaborone to Mokolodi where we spent the night in a "traditional" village.

Nested in the rural and isolated countryside, the scenery was spectacular. New plants and animal sounds, many of which we were unable ti identify.

We were greeted at the "cultural village" by three elderly women and an elderly man dressed in traditional Botswana attire. The “cultural village” itself was very touristy, but we stil had a blast.


We were initially under the impression prior to our arrival that we would, in fact, be staying in an authentically traditional village. Upon arrival, however, we quickly realized we had bought into the idea of having the "African village experience."

I don't think we realized beforehand that there was a market for the very experience we were seeking. However, the food and hospitality were great. We did, in fact, sleep in mud houses, but we weren't without running water or electricity.

The elders of the village sang and danced for us in a welcoming ceremony which we gladly took part in. We later tried traditional Botswana beer, which was startlingly different from any beer I've had before. I can only describe it as a sour, alcoholic porridge that isn’t carbonated, and is served lukewarm. It might take some getting use to.

The elders expressed their sadness that their culture and traditions are quickly disappearing, and in some instances, vanishing altogether in their lifetime. they claimed to have truly grown up in traditional villages, and only one of them had received any schooling.

They expressed frustration with the young generation of Botswana. They said they were leaving behind their culture, language, traditions, and very identity without a second thought in attempts to emulate the west. They blamed the HIV/AIDS epidemic on this, as well as alcohol. It was an interesting but sad conversation. They told us traditional Btoswana people living in the old ways were disappearing, and in some cases, being forced to immerse in modern society after being pushed off of federally sanctioned game reserves though having living in those areas for many generations.


The following morning we traveled to the Mokolodi Game Reserve for a Safari. We got to see an amazing variety of animals, and the reserve itself was spectacularly beautiful. Zebras, cheetahs, impalas, warthogs, ostriches, and more!

January 20, 2011

An incredible last few days!

All the international students took a trip together. We first went to a nearby village where we met with the village chief. He explained to us the traditional use of chiefs within villages, and their use in contemporary society today. He explained how they conduct ceremonies such weddings. We held both a mock trial and a mock wedding.


Though not commonly used in most parts of Botswana to the extent that they once were, chiefs of villages are still common in many areas. In the instance of crimes such as theft or domestic abuse, the people go before the chief. The chief hears the case from all parties involved, and makes a decision to help resolve the issue, commission punishment, etc. Corporeal punishment is still used for certain crimes in some villages.

Though no longer required it is encouraged for two individuals wishing to marry to approach the chief and ask for hid judgment and blessing.
In the instance of more serious crimes, such as murder, the chief doesn't involve himself. The case instead goes to court outside of the village much like the US.

Following this discussion and meeting with the chief and other village leaders, we traveled to a nearby cave and saw ancient cave paintings that were approximately 2,000 years old. We also visited a fantastic fig tree estimated to be around 500 years old. It was incredibly challenging to try to take pictures of this tree that conveyed how immense and breathtaking it was.

January 18, 2011

Today I visited the National Museum of Botswana. I was quite impressed with its diverse array of exhibits. The art exhibit was singularly filled with HIV?AIDS awareness sculptures, paintings, photographs, etc.

The rest of the museum detailed Botswana's history through colonialism and independence to the present. There were many displays with stuffed animals native to Botswana as well.

Earning it's independence from the British in 1966, Botswana has since held democratic elections. It currently has one of the fastest growing economies in the world.  It is the 47th largest country in the world in terms of land mass.  The Okavango Delta in the northern part of the country is the world's largest delta.

Several other students and I have begun planning a trip to the Okavango and to Chobe National Park for the mid-semester break. From the pictures I've seen, the articles I've read, and from speaking to those that have been, it sounds incredible.